I remember walking out to check on the girls one hot summer day a few years back. I do regular health checks on my flock, so I immediately noticed Nugget, my black Silkie, hanging back by the fence looking off. One look and I knew she wasn’t feeling right. I picked her up and felt her crop, and when I bent over to grab something off the ground, a smelly liquid shot out of her mouth. Gross! That was my first experience with sour crop in chickens.

What is Sour Crop in Chickens?

Sour crop, also called crop stasis or sour crop syndrome, is a condition where the crop (a pouch in the throat where chickens store food before digestion) stops emptying properly. When food gets stuck and doesn’t move through the system like it should, it can start to ferment. This leads to a buildup of gas, acids and in some cases, yeast or fungal infections. If not treated quickly, sour crop can become serious.

What Causes Sour Crop?

A lot of things can throw off a chicken’s digestive system. Diet is a big one. If a bird eats too many sugary scraps, processed food or even spoiled leftovers, it can ferment in the crop. That’s why it’s so important to know what foods you shouldn’t feed your chickens! In Nugget’s case, I’m pretty sure she grabbed something weird while free-ranging.

Lack of dietary fiber can slow digestion too. And if your chickens don’t have access to fresh, clean water, their crop can harden and block up. That’s one reason I use Chicken E-lixir in my flock’s water daily. It’s an easy way to support hydration and overall health!

Other common causes of sour crop include fungal infections, stress from overcrowding or extreme temperatures and even small objects a curious chicken might swallow. Unfortunately, if your birds free-range, there’s always some risk. But keeping their diet balanced and environment low-stress goes a long way.

Signs of Sour Crop in Chickens

It’s important to spot sour crop early. Some of the clearest symptoms include:

• A swollen or squishy crop, especially in the morning when it should be empty

• A foul, sour odor coming from the bird’s beak

• Lethargy or isolating from the flock

• Loss of appetite

• Weight loss over time

• Occasional regurgitation of liquid or undigested food

You may also notice a puffed-out crop area that stays full all day, wet feathers under the beak from regurgitation, or a hunched-over posture that shows your hen isn’t feeling her best

When I checked Nugget, she had all of these signs, except the weight loss, since I caught it early.

How to Treat Sour Crop in Chickens

Once you suspect sour crop, act quickly to relieve discomfort and get digestion back on track.

Start by removing all food for 12 to 24 hours to give the crop a break. I brought Nugget into the garage, gave her a quiet place to rest in a kennel and separated her from the rest of the flock. Honestly, she didn’t even care about the missing food. She wasn’t feeling up to eating anyway.

Make sure your chicken has plenty of clean water! I added Flock Fixer to Nugget’s water, which I truly believe helped her bounce back. It’s packed with oregano essential oil, prebiotics, probiotics, electrolytes, and vitamins which is perfect for stress recovery and gut support.

I also gently massaged her crop to help loosen the contents and get things moving. A couple times a day, I’d tip her slightly forward while massaging so she could expel any liquid buildup. Just plug your nose, it’s not pleasant!

How Long Does Recovery Take?

In Nugget’s case, she spent two days resting in the garage. She was a sweet little patient and responded well to the care. After that, she was back with her flock, scratching around like nothing had happened.

Preventing Sour Crop in Chickens

The best way to avoid sour crop is by staying consistent with care. Feed a balanced, fiber-rich diet and limit sugary or processed treats. Offer constant access to clean water and use preventative support like Chicken E-lixir or Flock Fixer to boost hydration and digestion, especially in stressful times like heat waves or changes in environment.

And most importantly? Keep a close eye on your birds. Catching sour crop early made all the difference for Nugget!

Until next time,

The Wing Lady

I remember having big dreams of starting my own seedlings and saving a ton of money on our garden. While it can be a rewarding and budget-friendly task, the older I get, the more I lean toward just buying started plants. But if you’re feeling ambitious and want to try growing from seed, planting in eggshells is a fun and eco-friendly way to get started.

That said, not every plant loves being tucked into a tiny eggshell pot. Here’s what to know before you crack into seed starting.

Why Use Eggshells for Seed Starting?

Eggshells make adorable little seed starters, and they’re a great way to reuse something you’d normally toss out. For backyard chicken keepers and gardeners alike, it feels good to repurpose natural materials and cut down on plastic waste. Plus, eggshells break down in the soil over time and offer a small calcium boost to your garden, which can support healthy plant growth.

To prepare eggshell seed starters:

• Crack eggs near the top to keep the shell mostly intact

• Rinse out the inside and let them dry

• Poke a small drainage hole in the bottom

• Place shells back in the carton for stability

• Fill with seed-starting mix and plant your seeds

Eggshells are especially fun for kids or anyone looking for a hands-on gardening project. Just remember, they’re small, so they’re best suited for plants with compact root systems or those that grow quickly and can be transplanted early.

Fast Growers and Deep Rooters Need More Room

Some plants just aren’t a good match for eggshell seed starting, either because they grow quickly or send roots deep into the soil. Eggshells are eco-friendly and effective, but their small size can limit root development and cause more harm than good for certain crops.

Fast-growing vegetables like lettuce and radishes often do best when sown directly into the garden or larger containers. I personally love planting big pots of lettuce on our deck. It looks beautiful and makes picking supper a breeze!

You’ll want to skip eggshells for these plants with large or deep root systems:

• Lettuce and radishes – Fast growers that quickly outpace the small space

• Tomatoes, cucumbers and squash – Develop sprawling root systems

• Carrots, beets and parsnips – Need deep soil for long, healthy taproots

   

Trying to grow these in eggshells can lead to stunted growth, crowded or twisted roots and transplant shock that slows them down once they hit the garden. In the case of root veggies, it may even lead to misshapen or poorly developed produce.

If you’re growing any of these crops, give them a better start with deeper seed trays, small pots or direct sowing into the ground. They’ll thank you for the extra space.

Heavy Feeders Need More Than Calcium

Additionally, corn, peppers and similar plants are known as “heavy feeders,” meaning they need a lot of nutrients to grow. While eggshells offer calcium, they can’t come close to meeting the early nutrient demands of these plants. That’s especially true during germination and the first few weeks of growth, when a solid nutritional foundation sets the tone for the entire growing season.

If you’re starting heavy feeders, opt for a high-quality potting mix with added compost or natural fertilizers. Use larger containers or seed trays that allow the roots to expand and access those nutrients. You’ll set your plants up for better growth, higher yields and less transplant shock down the line.

And if you raise chickens, this is a great spot to use composted chicken manure to enrich your mix. Just make sure it’s fully composted and aged, as fresh manure is too strong for seedlings and can burn them.

Acid-Loving Plants and Eggshells Don’t Mix

Soil pH plays also plays a big role in whether your plants thrive or struggle. Some plants, like blueberries, and azaleas, prefer more acidic soil to help them absorb the nutrients they need. Eggshells, on the other hand, are naturally alkaline. When used as seed-starting containers for acid-loving plants, they can raise the pH of the soil just enough to cause problems.

If the pH isn’t right, these plants may struggle with nutrient uptake, which can show up as yellowing leaves, weak stems and stunted growth. In short, it’s not worth the risk.

To give these types of plants a good start, skip the eggshells and choose a seed-starting mix designed for acid-loving plants. You’ll set them up for healthier growth and fewer nutrient issues from the beginning.

Tiny Seeds Can Be Tricky in Eggshells

Seeds from flowers like petunias and snapdragons are so small that spacing them in an eggshell is tough. If you can manage it, it’s doable, but it’s much easier with seed trays that have more space and separation.

So… Should You Start Seeds in Eggshells?

Starting seeds in eggshells can be a fun, sustainable option. I used to love doing it when our kids were little. But now? I’ll admit, I skip the hardening-off process and head to the garden center for transplants. No shame in that!

Whether you go DIY or buy your seedlings ready to plant, one thing’s for sure, nothing beats the flavor of homegrown produce. Our garden is right next to the chicken run, and the girls would agree… gardening season is our favorite season!

Until next time,

-The Wing Lady

The internet is full of beautiful chickens in magazine-worthy coops. But let’s be real, chickens are barnyard animals, and barnyard animals can come with some… yucky pests. One of the biggest concerns for backyard chicken keepers? Mites.

I’ve had people ask me, “Can mites from chickens get on humans?” It’s a good question, especially if, like me, you love snuggling your chickens! So let’s dig into what chicken mites are, whether you should worry and how to keep your flock (and yourself) protected.

What Are Chicken Mites?

Mites are tiny arthropods related to ticks and spiders. They’re part of the Arachnida class, not insects, and while some are harmless, others can cause serious problems for your chickens.

Here are the most common mites found in backyard flocks:

• Red Mites: Nocturnal bloodsuckers that live in the coop and feed on chickens at night. They cause stress and decreased egg production.

• Northern Fowl Mites: Another blood-feeding mite that can lead to anemia and feather loss.

• Scaly Leg Mites: These burrow under the skin of your chicken’s legs and feet, causing thickened scales and irritation.

   

Can Chicken Mites Live on Humans?

Short answer: not really. Most mites that affect chickens are host-specific, meaning they prefer birds over people. However, if you’ve handled infested birds or spent time in a dirty coop, you could experience mite bites and temporary skin irritation or mild allergic reactions.

They usually won’t live on humans long-term, but they can hitch a ride on your clothing and cause itching or red bumps.

Can Mites Spread to Other Animals?

Yes. While they don’t typically bother humans, mites can transfer between different animals. If you raise multiple types of poultry, or have pets, proper mite control is even more important to prevent spreading!

How to Prevent Mites in Chickens

Keeping your coop clean and your flock healthy is the best defense. Here’s what I do:

• Use Coop Recuperate: Total game-changer for me. It keeps the coop smelling fresh and helps dry out the moisture that mites love.

• Clean regularly: Remove bedding, droppings and debris on a weekly basis.

• Check chickens frequently: Watch for feather loss, visible mites or scaly legs.

• Quarantine new birds: I personally avoid introducing adult birds. I only add chicks to reduce risk.

And don’t forget about wild birds, they can carry mites too! I use pinwheels, reflective tape and sun shades to keep them from cozying up to my coop and flock.

What if Your Chickens Already Have Mites?

Don’t panic, it happens to the best of us! You can find practical treatment tips in my guide on how to treat mites in chickens.

Don’t Stress, Just Stay Prepared

The risk of getting mites from your chickens is low, but skin irritation can happen with close contact. The key is to stay informed, act quickly, and remember: You’re not failing, you’re just raising barnyard animals in your backyard. And honestly? There’s nothing better than that!

Until next time,

The Wing Lady

Deworming chickens is an essential part of maintaining a healthy flock. Worm infestations can lead to weight loss, decreased egg production and even serious health complications if left untreated. While worms are a common issue for chickens, the good news is that with proper care and prevention, you can keep your flock healthy and happy.

Let’s dive into how chickens get worms, signs of infestations and the best ways to prevent and treat them.

How Do Chickens Get Worms?

Chickens can easily pick up worms from the environment. They are often exposed to worm eggs or larvae in soil, droppings or contaminated food and water. Free-ranging flocks are especially at risk because it’s impossible to control everything they peck at while foraging.

While the risk of worms is always present, the benefits of free-ranging—like happier, healthier birds—outweigh the downsides for many chicken keepers. By focusing on prevention, you can minimize the risks and keep your flock worm-free.

Symptoms of Worms in Chickens

Spotting the signs of worms early is key to effective treatment. Common symptoms include:

• Weight loss

• Decreased egg production

• Diarrhea

• Dull, lackluster feathers

• Lethargy

• Visible worms in droppings

If you notice these symptoms, it’s time to take action. Worms in droppings or eggs are a clear indicator of infestation, but other symptoms may overlap with other chicken health issues. Monitor your flock closely to determine the root cause.

Preventing Worms in Chickens

The best way to deal with worms is to prevent them in the first place. Here are some proactive steps to keep your flock healthy:

• Start Strong: A healthy immune system is your flock’s first line of defense. Products like Chicken E-lixir, which contains oregano essential oil, can help support gut health and naturally deter worms. Oregano is known for its antiparasitic properties and helps prevent worms from attaching to the gut wall.

• Quarantine New Birds: If you bring in new chickens, quarantine them for at least 30 days before introducing them to your flock. This precaution prevents worms, lice, mites and other diseases from spreading.

• Clean and Hygienic Coop: Regularly clean your coop and remove droppings to reduce the risk of worms. Use Coop Recuperate to keep bedding clean and dry while controlling moisture and odors. A clean coop creates a less friendly environment for parasites!

• Natural Preventatives: Incorporate garlic, pumpkin seeds and essential oils like oregano into your flock’s diet. While these haven’t been scientifically proven to kill worms, ingredients like essential oils can irritate worms and help prevent them from latching onto the gut wall where they can cause damage to birds.

 

How to Treat Worms in Chickens

If your flock does end up with worms, acting quickly is critical. Here’s what to do:

1. Treat the Whole Flock

If one chicken has worms, assume the rest are at risk and treat the entire flock. Chickens often share food, water and spaces where worms can spread.

2. Deworming Options

• Commercial Dewormers: A reliable way to treat worm infestations that come in liquid, powder or pellet forms. They’re highly effective, but it’s super important to follow the instructions carefully—no winging it here! Be mindful not to overuse dewormers, as this can lead to parasite resistance (yikes!), where worms build up a tolerance to the medication. Many dewormers also have an egg withdrawal period, so you’ll need to hold off on using the eggs for a little while during treatment.

• Natural Remedies: For a gentler approach, try the natural options I mentioned above. However, it’s important to remember that the quality and quantity of these natural remedies matter. Always use food-grade ingredients and consult with a poultry health professional if you’re unsure about the correct dosage.

• Veterinary Guidance: Severe cases may require veterinary intervention. A poultry vet can recommend the best treatment plan and proper dosing.

 

3. Manage the Environment

Keep the coop clean, provide fresh water daily and replace bedding regularly. This limits re-infestation and creates a healthier living environment for your flock.

Prevention is always better than treatment when it comes to worms in chickens. Start by building strong immune systems, maintaining a clean and healthy coop and using natural products like Chicken E-lixir to support gut health naturally. If worms do show up, act quickly and consult a poultry health professional if needed!

 

Until next time,

–The Wing Lady

I was sitting in the chicken run last week watching my flock scratch around the dirt. It got me thinking about how fast they ate the grass that was once under their feet. Chickens love greens, grass and plants! Free-ranging gives their nutrition a boost and cuts down on food costs. However, if your run looks like mine, there isn’t much green (or any!) for them to pluck.

Quick-growing plants can help improve soil quality, reduce mud and keep your chickens happy and healthy. They’re also a great boredom buster for chickens in confined runs!

Why Add Fast-Growing Plants to Your Chicken Run?

This ground was once luscious, green grass! Chickens are tough on greenery, and your run can quickly turn into a dust patch. Adding quick growing plants to your chicken run does more than make it look nice. It supports natural foraging behaviors, enriches their diet and even helps maintain better soil conditions.

The trickiest part? Getting the plants to grow before your chickens get to them! A screen cover or a blocked-off area where they can go in and out under your control works great.

Best Quick-Growing Plants for Chickens

If your chicken run is looking a little bare, these quick-growing plants for chickens can freshen things up fast while keeping your flock happy and busy.

Clover

Clover is a favorite for chickens. It grows quickly, fixes nitrogen in the soil, improves soil health and provides a mild, nutritious snack. It germinates in about 7-10 days. Plant the clover seeds in a sunny spot and keep the soil moist.

Alfalfa

Alfalfa sprouts rapidly and is rich in protein. It’s great for both free-range and confined chicken runs and encourages natural foraging. This quick-growing plant is ready to graze in about 10-14 days. Alfalfa prefers full sun and well-drained soil.

Sunflowers

Sunflowers aren’t technically fast-growing, but once sprouted, they grow quickly. Chickens love the seeds, and the tall plants give shade and shelter. I’m going to plant these on the outside of my run right next to the fence. They sprout in about 7 days and reach a good height in 3-4 weeks. Make sure you plant them in well-draining soil and give them space to grow tall!

Radishes

Radishes have edible greens that chickens enjoy, and they grow very fast. Sometimes ready to eat in just over 3 weeks. Plus, have you ever put radishes at the bottom of a roast in a slow cooker? They taste just like potatoes but without all the carbs!

Mustard Greens

Mustard greens grow rapidly, are cold-hardy and add variety to your chickens’ diet. They take a little longer but are great to grow in cooler seasons. Mustard greens are ready to harvest in about 30 days.

Barley Grass

Barley grass is highly nutritious, grows fast and chickens love grazing on it. It germinates in just 2-3 days! The best thing about barley grass is that it regrows multiple times, giving you more bang for your buck.

Tips for Growing Greens for Chickens

Obviously, growing greens for your chickens doesn’t replace a high-quality feed. It enhances their diet though and gives them something fun to do in the run if they can’t be out free-ranging. Chickens can get bored, and that’s when behavior issues show up in a flock. This is a great boredom buster for them!

If you don’t feel like battling the chickens and don’t have a great blockade system, you can grow most of these in pots as well and then just feed them to your chickens that way. Either way, I think you’ll find adding quick-growing greens to your flock’s diet will enhance their life and add to the deliciousness of their eggs!

Until next time,

–The Wing Lady

Every spring, I get the itch to add to my backyard flock! All it takes is one peek over the edge of the chick brooders at our local farm supply store and I am hooked! While it is hard to resist those cute little fluff balls, it is important to remember they grow fast and so do their instincts.

One behavior that surprises many first-time chicken owners is how quickly chicks start to establish a pecking order. Yes, it is a real thing, not just a saying, and it starts right in the brooder. But why do chicks peck at each other? It is their natural way of figuring out who is in charge. Each chick defends its place, and sometimes it can get a little rough.

If you are paying close attention, you will start to notice who the top chick is early on. It is fascinating to watch, but it can also be a little shocking when things get out of hand. That is exactly what happened to one of my chicks last year.

A Real-Life Story of Pecking Injury and Recovery

I had my chicks shipped from Hoover’s Hatchery and they arrived strong, healthy and full of energy. On the second day in the brooder, I did a routine check and noticed something was off. One of my sweet little chicks, Cheddar, was standing alone with her head down. Suddenly, two other chicks rushed over and started pecking at her face, right near her eyes.

My heart sank.

When I scooped her up, I could see both of her eyes were swollen and bloody. Honestly, I was not even sure if one of her eyeballs was still intact. I was horrified.

I brought her into the house, kept her warm and gently cleaned the blood from her face. She nestled into a blanket on my chest and just slept. I did not want her to suffer, but I also did not want to give up on her.

How One Wound Spray Helped My Chick

I decided to keep Cheddar separate but nearby. I placed her in a clear tote inside the brooder so she could still hear and see her flock mates. Then I pulled out my favorite recovery products: Flock Fixer, First Peep and most importantly, Bye-Bye Boo-Boos spray.

I dipped a Q-tip in the spray and gently applied it to her eyes. She did not even flinch. In fact, she would just snuggle in and fall asleep. Bye-Bye Boo-Boos was a lifesaver. It soothed her wounds without stinging and helped her eyes heal beautifully.

Within a week and a half, Cheddar was back to her normal self. Her eyes had healed and I slowly began reintegrating her into the flock. Today, she is a thriving, happy hen and we share a special bond that goes beyond the brooder.

Here’s Cheddar, left to right, on her healing journey. The first photo shows her just after I found her injured in the brooder. The second was taken about two hours after applying Bye-Bye Boo-Boos. The third is two days into using the spray and the final photo shows Cheddar today!

Gentle, Effective and Egg-Safe

I now keep Bye-Bye Boo-Boos spray on hand at all times. Whether it is a cut, scrape or even a mild case of Bumblefoot, this spray is my go-to. It does not sting, it is safe for all ages of poultry and best of all, there is no egg withdrawal period. That means I can use it even on my laying hens without worry.

If you are putting together a chicken first-aid kit, this spray is a must-have. It is easy to apply, comforting for your flock and works quickly when your birds need support the most.

Chick Days Can Be Rough

So why do chicks peck at each other? It is their way of figuring out their place in the flock. While pecking order behavior is natural, it can sometimes lead to injuries. Having the right products on hand can make all the difference when things get intense.

Taking care of your chicks from day one sets them up for a strong and healthy life. Keep watching, keep loving and keep your first-aid supplies close. You never know when one of your little fluff balls might need extra help.

Happy Chick Days!

The Wing Lady