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The Secret Life of Your Backyard Biome

When you step outside into your backyard, it may look like just a patch of grass, a few trees, maybe a garden bed or two. But beneath the surface—and buzzing around right in front of your nose—is a bustling world of interactions. This living network is known as your backyard biome, and it’s far more complex (and fascinating) than it appears.

Let’s pull back the curtain on what’s happening in your backyard’s miniature ecosystem.

What exactly is a biome?

A biome is a large-scale community of plants, animals, fungi, and microbes that share a particular climate and set of conditions. Your backyard might not rival the Amazon rainforest, but it’s still a microcosm of life where organisms constantly interact, adapt, and balance each other out.

Think of your yard as a small-scale stage where soil, water, plants, insects, and animals all play parts in a never-ending performance.

 

The Building Blocks of the Backyard Biome

  1. Soil: The Foundation

Healthy soil is more than just dirt—it’s alive. Billions of bacteria, fungi, nematodes, and earthworms live in a handful of soil. They break down organic matter, recycle nutrients, and improve soil structure so plants can grow strong. Without this hidden workforce, your lawn, garden, and trees wouldn’t survive.

  1. Plants: The Producers

Plants take sunlight and turn it into energy through photosynthesis, forming the foundation of the food web. From towering oaks to humble dandelions, every plant supports life. They provide food for pollinators, shelter for small creatures, and oxygen for the entire system (including you).

  1. Insects: The Middle Managers

Love them or not, insects keep your backyard biome humming. Pollinators like bees and butterflies enable plants to reproduce, while decomposers like beetles and ants break down waste. Even pests like aphids serve a purpose—they feed ladybugs, birds, and other predators.

  1. Birds, Mammals, and Beyond

Squirrels, rabbits, songbirds, and even the occasional raccoon are all part of the biome. They disperse seeds, control insect populations, and sometimes make a meal out of your vegetable patch. Larger predators (hawks, owls, foxes) play the role of top regulators, keeping smaller animal populations in check.

  1. Microorganisms: The Invisible Heroes

Yeast, algae, protozoa, and countless bacteria operate quietly, recycling nutrients and balancing the ecosystem. Without them, waste would pile up and plants would starve.

Cycles That Keep It All Running

Your backyard biome doesn’t just exist—it cycles. A few key loops keep it healthy:

  • Nutrient Cycling: Fallen leaves, grass clippings, and compost decompose into nutrients, which feed the soil and, in turn, the plants.
  • Water Cycle: Rain infiltrates the soil, hydrates plants, and evaporates back into the air—often moderated by plant roots that prevent runoff.
  • Energy Flow: Sunlight → plants → herbivores → carnivores → decomposers. Every transfer fuels another part of the system.

How You Influence Your Backyard Biome

Whether you realize it or not, your actions shape the health of your biome:

  • Lawn chemicals can disrupt soil microbes and harm pollinators.
  • Native plants attract more beneficial insects and birds than exotic ornamentals.
  • Composting closes the nutrient loop and boosts soil health.
  • Habitat features like birdhouses, log piles, or wildflower patches increase biodiversity.

By making intentional choices, you can help your biome thrive instead of tipping it out of balance.

Why It Matters

A thriving backyard biome doesn’t just benefit the creatures living in it—it benefits you, too. Healthy soil grows better food. Pollinators boost gardens and orchards. Biodiversity helps control pests naturally. And maybe most importantly, stepping outside into a living, balanced ecosystem provides a sense of wonder and peace.

Your backyard may look small on a map, but to the countless organisms living there, it’s a whole world—and you’re part of it.

All About the Black Australorp Chicken Breed

When you think of backyard chickens, popular breeds like Orpingtons, Barred Rocks, Leghorns or Rhode Island Reds often come to mind. But there’s another breed you should absolutely consider when starting or expanding your flock, the Black Australorp.

Known worldwide for their “egg-ceptional ” laying ability, hardiness and striking black plumage, Black Australorps have become a favorite among chicken keepers.

The Origin of the Black Australorp

The Black Australorp was developed in Australia in the early 1900s by crossing Black Orpingtons with Minorcas, Langshans and White Leghorns. The goal? To create a chicken that was both resilient and highly productive.

They became famous when a Black Australorp hen set a world record for egg production in the 1920s, laying 364 eggs in 365 days! This achievement cemented their reputation as one of the best egg-laying breeds in the world.

What Do Black Australorps Look Like?

Black Australorps are a large, heavy breed with glossy black feathers that shimmer with a greenish-purple sheen in the sunlight. Their broad, deep bodies are well-rounded and they sport a single comb with slate or dark-colored legs.

  • Hen weight: 5–6 pounds

  • Rooster weight: 7–8 pounds

Black Australorps chicks

Egg Production and Temperament

If you’re after eggs, this breed delivers. A healthy Black Australorp hen can produce 250–300 large brown eggs per year, and they’re consistent layers even during the colder months.

But egg production isn’t their only advantage. Black Australorps are calm, friendly and docile. They make excellent pets for families, are easy to handle and adapt well to free-range environments.

 
Black Australorps brown chicken egg laying in straw

A Dual-Purpose Chicken: Eggs and Meat

While prized for their eggs, Black Australorps are also valued for their size, making them a solid dual-purpose choice for small farms and homesteads. They provide both reliable egg production and quality meat.

Care and Hardiness

Australorps are known for their hardiness in a variety of climates. With proper shelter, they tolerate both heat and cold well. Like all chickens, they thrive in a clean, well-ventilated coop with access to fresh water and a balanced diet.

 

Their popularity is growing fast, so if you’re looking to add some to your flock, be sure to get on a hatchery or breeder list early. With Australorps, you’ll enjoy both fresh eggs and some of the friendliest chickens around, it’s a win-win!

 

The Black Australorp is a true backyard chicken superstar, hardy, productive, beautiful and friendly. Whether you’re a first-time chicken owner or an experienced keeper, this breed will be a rewarding addition to your flock!

Until next time,

–The Wing Lady

What is the Benefit of Fermenting Chicken Feed?

Raising happy, healthy chickens often starts with what you feed them. One increasingly popular practice among backyard chicken keepers is fermenting chicken feed. But what exactly is fermented feed, and why might you consider it for your flock?

What is Fermented Chicken Feed?

Fermenting chicken feed means soaking grains, seeds and other feed ingredients in water to kick-start natural fermentation. This process encourages the growth of beneficial bacteria and yeasts. As the feed ferments, it becomes easier to digest and more nutrient-rich, much like how yogurt and sauerkraut deliver probiotics to humans!

three chickens eating fermented chicken feed from someone's hand

The Benefits of Fermented Feed for Chickens

1. Better Nutrient Absorption

Fermentation breaks down complex nutrients into simpler forms that are easier for chickens to digest. This boosts the absorption of key vitamins, minerals and amino acids for better growth, stronger bones and improved egg production.

 

2. Supports Gut Health with Probiotics

Fermented feed is full of good bacteria (probiotics), which help chickens maintain a healthy gut. A balanced microbiome improves digestion, boosts immunity, and reduces the risk of infections and digestive upset.

 

3. Less Feed Waste

If you’ve watched your chickens eat, you know they often pick through dry feed for the tastiest bits. Fermented feed is soft, moist, and more appealing, so chickens eat more of what you give them—meaning less waste and better nutrient intake.

 

4. May Lower Feed Costs

Fermenting feed could save you money—if done right. Because nutrients are more bioavailable, chickens might need less feed to stay healthy and productive. It also allows you to use lower-cost feed ingredients without sacrificing nutrition. Just keep in mind: fermented feed must be eaten within 24 hours to avoid mold.

 

5. Stronger Eggshells and Feathers

Many chicken owners report better feather quality and stronger eggshells after switching to fermented feed. This points to improved calcium absorption and overall nutrition.

 

How to Ferment Chicken Feed

Fermenting feed is simple. Here’s how to do it:

  1. Mix feed with clean water in a container (about 1:1 ratio).

  2. Cover loosely and let it sit at room temperature for 24–48 hours.

  3. Stir occasionally to ensure even fermentation.

  4. Feed it to your flock and toss any leftovers after 24 hours to prevent spoilage.

 

Is Fermented Feed Right for You?

Fermenting chicken feed is a natural, cost-effective way to boost flock health. But there’s another option I personally prefer, Strong Animals Chicken Essentials!

 

I’ve used their products for over seven years and have had the healthiest flock I’ve ever raised. Chicken E-lixir and Flock Fixer are loaded with probiotics, prebiotics, essential oils, vitamins and minerals. They’re a much easier way to support gut health, no moldy feed, no extra prep and they’re very affordable!

 

Try Fermented Feed or Simplify Gut Health

If you’re up for trying fermented feed, go for it! It can be a great addition to your chicken care routine. But if you’re looking for a simpler, equally effective option, Strong Animals Chicken Essentials is my go-to. Either way, your chickens will benefit from better digestion, stronger immunity and improved overall health.

 

Until next time,

 

–The Wing Lady

Never Say Never… Or Always

Justin Bieber’s song, NEVER SAY NEVER, applies to chickens. How can that be?

 

Rich and Marion Patterson learned “how” with their new flock. When preparing their chick order in early spring they selected half their chicks to be from well-known, dual-purpose production breeds. So, they included Barred Rocks, Rhode Island Reds, and Delawares in the order along with one California White, a famous laying dynamo. All are breeds unlikely to pause laying and go broody. The other half of the flock was from fun breeds like Brahmas and Cochins. They’re gorgeous modest layers that have a tendency to go broody.

 

Their flock’s first eggs came as the weather cooled in September. Mixed in with brown eggs was a daily white one laid by their sole California White. Then something odd happened. That supposedly non broody hen went broody!

Hens are less likely to go broody as days shorten in the fall and nights cool. Broodiness is more likely in late winter and spring. Patterson’s California White had different thoughts. She went broody in the fall while her broody prone flock mates kept laying.

 

Why?

 

The answer is simple and is important to understand when purchasing a flock of baby chicks. Chickens, like all living things, are individuals. No matter how much intensive breeding is devoted to developing traits, like high egg production, disease resistance, avoiding broodiness, once in a while a chicken is different from her sisters. She beats to a different drummer.

 

Although the Patterson’s California White is a hybrid that rarely goes broody, the word “rarely” is important. Once in a while an individual varies from the norm for the breed.   Because of that the folks at Hoover’s Hatchery are careful to avoid using definite words to describe a breed’s characteristics. They don’t use words like never or always to describe characteristics.  Instead, their descriptions use words that allow for individual differences like usually, seldom, occasionally or tend to when describing a breed.

 

Sometimes they make individual differences clear. For example, when describing the egg color of Olive Eggers the Hoover’s catalog states that the greenish color isn’t perfect. 5% of the birds may lay brown eggs. 

 

Anyone ordering a batch of chicks should keep individual variation in mind. Want the most eggs?  Order famous hybrids like ISA Browns or California Whites, but don’t be perplexed if an occasional one lays very few eggs or goes broody. The flock, in total, will lay plenty of eggs.  Want broody hens?  Order from breeds that are likely to be broody, but in that flock a few individuals will decide to opt out of motherhood and keep laying.

 

Individual variations within a small chicken flock are fascinating.  It’s part of the fun of keeping them.

Downsizing A Flock

From time to time, we’ve had to downsize our flock. It’s emotional. Saying goodbye to the feathery friends who have generously given us eggs is hard. An empty coop, lacking the bubbly chicken energy is a sad place. Downsizing or eliminating a flock can be distressing and tricky.

 

Why Downside a Flock

 

People downsize a flock for many reasons. Here are a few we have had to use.

 

  • We’re moving and can’t have chickens in our new home.
  • Our hens are getting old and aren’t laying many eggs. We need to replace them with younger ones.
  • We bought chicks when egg prices were sky high, thinking we’d produce them cheaper. We learned that a chicken flock isn’t our cup of tea, so we need to get them to a better home.
  • We want to switch to a different breed.
  • We got chickens when our kids were young so they’d learn where food really comes from and how to care for animals. Now the kids are grown and have left the nest, and we don’t want chickens anymore.

 

The most common reason we downsize the flock, or part of the flock, is because the girls have just gotten old and aren’t laying much. Typically, hens lay the most eggs during their first and second lay cycle. So, when they approach three years old production slows down. They’ll still lay eggs for several more years but fewer each year.  Eventually we replace the hens.

 

A Chicken Mentor

 

When we close down a flock of older hens and replace them with young pullets, we often keep one or two of the old girls. A mentor hen may not lay many eggs, but she’s valuable. She’s experienced!  She will show newcomers what’s good to eat and what’s not, how to avoid predators, and where to lay eggs. Sometimes we have to rehome our entire flock but when we can, we keep a mentor or two.

 

 

How To Reduce a Flock

 

Probably the best way to downsize or eliminate a flock is to give the birds to another flock owner who will provide them a good home. We stay in touch with a few nearby families who keep chickens. If we need to dispose of some birds, we give these folks a call or send an email to ask if they’d like some extra birds. If that doesn’t work here are some ways we’ve reduced our flock:

 

  • Eat them! Well, they are chickens and Americans eat millions of them every day. Slaughter is not a viable option for anyone emotionally attached to their birds. We can’t eat Fuzzy! Also, town ordinances often prohibit slaughtering chickens. Anyone who desires to slaughter their surplus chickens can learn how to do it from an experienced chicken keeper. Many YouTube videos show how to cut up a chicken carcass. Don’t be surprised. A three- or four-year-old hen’s meat is different from supermarket chicken. It’s richly flavored and delicious but tough.  The meat of old hens is best slow cooked in stew.
  • Put an ad on Facebook Marketplace, Craig’s List, or other social media sites.

Often calls start coming right away. Old hens can be given away, but we usually charge a couple of dollars per bird.

  • Contact the local town or county humane society or animal control department. They likely know other families who have chickens and can help make a connection.

 

Catching and Moving Chickens

 

We’re always careful when we move chickens for any reason. They have to be caught and put in a container for transport for transportation to a different place. It’s a traumatic event for a chicken, so we try to keep the birds, and us, as calm as possible.

The best and safest way to catch a chicken is to enter the coop after dark with a flashlight and gently place hands over a sleeping hen’s wings so she can’t flap and then transfer her into a transport box or cage. If it has to be done during daylight a gentle way to catch a chicken is with a large long handled fish landing net. Netting holds the bird still so we can gently grab and move her.

We’ve used a big cardboard box to hold chickens when we move them a short way. Holes or cracks in the cardboard let air in and the dark interior tends to keep birds calm and quiet. We’ve also used wire box traps used to catch raccoons as a transportation cage. A raccoon-sized trap will hold about three birds. It’s best to move the chickens to their new home quickly.

Caution: Avoid moving chickens during hot weather. Riling them up to catch them and then placing them in a hot cardboard box may kill them. Wait for a cool day or evening and give the birds plenty of space in the box.

 

After we’ve removed our flock, we scoop and sweep out the litter and move it to the compost bin. Then we scrub the floor with soapy water or a mild bleach solution. We scrape old droppings off roosts, sanitize the perches, and thoroughly clean feeders and waterers.

 

Just before we add new chickens, we add fresh wood shavings as litter and fill feeders and waterers. We want our new hens to be comfortable in a clean and safe home.

 

Chickens + Kids: The Perfect (and Slightly Chaotic) Backyard Team

Let’s be real—kids and chickens are basically made for each other. Chickens are funny little dinosaurs that poop eggs (magical, right?), and kids are curious, messy mini-humans who love having a job that feels important. Put them together and suddenly you’ve got a built-in farm crew, life lessons on tap, and maybe even a few less “I’m bored” complaints.

Here’s why you should involve kids in chicken care—and how to make it fun (and safe) for everyone.

Why Bother Letting the Kids Help?

  1. They Learn Responsibility (Without Rolling Their Eyes Too Much)

Taking care of living things teaches kids accountability. Watering the flock, collecting eggs, or helping with coop cleanup shows them that chores matter because real feathered lives depend on it. And unlike vacuuming the living room, chicken care comes with a daily prize: breakfast.

  1. It’s Basically a Biology Class in Disguise

Want to teach your kids about life cycles, ecosystems, or where food comes from? Chickens do all the heavy lifting. Eggs hatch, feathers molt, seasons change, and your child gets a front-row seat—no textbook required.

  1. It Gets Them Off the Screens

Chickens are feathered entertainers. Watching them scratch, chase bugs, or argue over a piece of lettuce is way more engaging than yet another YouTube video. Bonus: sunlight + fresh air = tired kids who sleep well.

  1. Confidence Booster

When a child can say, “I fed the chickens today,” or “These are the eggs I collected,” it gives them pride. It’s tangible proof that they can do real, meaningful work. (And if you’ve ever tried to convince a picky eater to eat scrambled eggs, just wait until they’re eating “their” eggs—miraculous.)

How to Get Kids Involved Without Losing Your Sanity

  • Egg Collectors Extraordinaire- 
Perfect for even the youngest helpers. Hand them a little basket, and suddenly they’re on a treasure hunt.
  • Water Patrol
 -Filling waterers is a great job for kids old enough to carry a jug without spilling it all over their shoes. (Okay, they’ll still spill it, but that’s part of the charm.)
  • Chicken Snack Time
-Give them veggie scraps and let them toss them to the flock. Just remind them chickens don’t need a Twinkie diet.
  • Mini Managers
-Older kids can help rake the run, spread fresh bedding, or check for signs of pests. (Tell them they’re on “dino doctor duty” and suddenly it’s cool.)

A Few Ground Rules (Because Chickens Have Feelings Too)

  • Teach kids to move slowly—no chasing or grabbing.
  • Wash hands after handling birds or eggs.
  • Coop cleanup? That’s for older kids (or kids who owe you big time).

Final Thoughts

Involving kids in chicken care isn’t just about getting free labor (though let’s be honest, that’s a perk). It’s about giving them real responsibility, connecting them to where food comes from, and building memories that stick. Years from now, when they’re off doing adult things, they’ll still remember the smell of fresh hay, the excitement of warm eggs in their hands, and yes—the time a hen pooped on their shoe.

Because raising chickens is never just about chickens. It’s about raising kids, too.

 

How Old Are Chickens When They Start Laying Eggs?

I’ll never forget the first time I thought my hen, Coco, laid her first egg. I was so excited I told the whole internet about it… only to find out someone had slipped a fake egg into my coop! It didn’t crack the next morning, and I was crushed. Two days later, Coco really did lay her first egg, and yes, I made just as big of a deal about it. Not long after, the rest of my flock followed her lead, and suddenly I had more fresh eggs than I knew what to do with.

eggs in nesting boxes with green turf

That moment made me realize just how exciting it is when chickens finally begin laying. But it also raised the big question every new chicken keeper asks: When do hens start laying eggs?

 

When Do Chickens Start Laying Eggs?

Most hens will begin laying between 16 and 24 weeks old (about 4–6 months). But don’t be surprised if your flock doesn’t all start at once. Timing depends on breed, diet, environment and overall health.

  • Early layers (like Leghorns and Rhode Island Reds) may start around 16–18 weeks.

  • Heavier breeds (like Orpingtons or Brahmas) may not lay until 20–24 weeks or later.

     

What Helps Chickens Lay Eggs on Time?

Several factors can speed up or slow down when hens lay:

  • Daylight hours – Chickens need about 14–16 hours of light per day to keep laying consistently. In winter, production often slows down. Some keepers use artificial light, but I prefer letting my flock take a natural break.

  • Nutrition – A diet rich in protein, calcium and essential nutrients is key for healthy development and egg laying.

  • Environment – Stress-free housing, good space and protection from predators keep hens comfortable enough to lay.

  • Breed differences – Some are natural sprinters (early layers), others are marathoners (slower but steady).

     

Signs Your Hens Are About to Lay

Before the first egg shows up, your chickens may give you some clues:

  • Bright red combs and wattles

  • Nesting behavior and increased clucking

  • Hanging out in the nest boxes

  • Slight appetite changes

  • “Squatting” when you approach

The first eggs are often small with thinner shells, but don’t worry, they’ll improve as your hens mature.

How Long Do Chickens Lay Eggs?

Most hens hit their peak production in the first year, then gradually slow down. I still have some seven-year-old hens in my coop, they don’t lay anymore, but they’ve earned their retirement (and free food!).

If you want steady egg production, it’s a good idea to add new pullets to your flock every year or two. Just remember: breeds vary. Some ornamental chickens are adorable but not big egg producers, while heavier breeds are great layers.

Final Tip: Plan for More Chickens Than You Think

If there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s this: build a bigger coop than you think you’ll need. Whether you’re after colorful eggs, high production or simply the fun of keeping backyard chickens, you’ll almost always end up with more hens than you planned for, and you’ll love every one of them.

Fresh eggs, happy hens and lots of chicken personalities make the waiting worth it.

Until next time,

–The Wing Lady

Crows & Clucks: Should You Let the Backyard Goths Hang Out With Your Chickens?

So you’ve got chickens. They’re fluffy, they’re fabulous, and they lay breakfast. But now you’ve noticed a few mysterious, dark-feathered figures lurking nearby—crows. Are they friends? Foes? Freeloaders? Before you start handing out tiny trench coats and naming them Edgar, let’s break down the pros and cons of letting crows hang around your backyard flock.

Pros: The Crow Side of Things

🧠 Smart Security Guards

Crows are basically the neighborhood watch with wings. They’re incredibly intelligent and will sound the alarm if predators are nearby. Hawks, raccoons, or that one cat with a suspicious glint in its eye—crows will call it out.

🧹 Clean-Up Crew

Crows are scavengers, which means they’ll happily clean up spilled feed, food scraps, and anything your chickens leave behind. It’s like having a feathered Roomba, but with attitude.

🐜 Pest Control Pros

Crows eat insects, rodents, and other small pests that might bug your chickens (literally). They’re nature’s pest control, minus the monthly bill.

🎓 Free Entertainment

Watching crows solve problems, play games, and occasionally troll your chickens is like having a live nature documentary in your backyard. Bonus: they might teach your chickens a thing or two about street smarts. We started out feeding a “married couple,” as we called them. At first, handling feeding JUST 2 crows was easy. After a few months, word spread, and we now have 7 crows who split their daily bread. A couple are clearly young, and flap their wings, begging their parents to feed them, even thoughthry are clearly old enough to feed themselves!

Cons: The Crow-ncerned Side

🥚 Egg Thieves

Crows love eggs. If they figure out where your hens are laying, they might start helping themselves. Your omelet dreams could be dashed by a sneaky beak.

🐥 Chick-napping Risk

Crows generally don’t mess with full-grown chickens, but chicks? That’s a different story. If you’ve got babies in the flock, keep them protected—crows can be opportunistic.

🗣️ Noise Pollution

Crows are chatty. And loud. If you thought your rooster was vocal, wait until a murder of crows starts gossiping in your trees at 6 a.m. Crows use their voices as their main mode of communication, and will soon start trying tocommunicate with you! Our crows are in the tress at sunrise, calling me for breakfast!

💩 Messy Guests

They’re not exactly tidy. Crows can leave droppings, scatter trash, and generally make a mess if they’re feeling bold. Think of them as the punk rockers of the bird world—cool, but not always courteous.

Final Verdict: Murder or Mates?

Crows can be surprisingly beneficial backyard companions—smart, resourceful, and occasionally hilarious. But they’re not without their mischief. If you’re willing to keep an eye on your eggs and chicks, and maybe toss a few shiny trinkets their way (they love that), you might just find yourself with a feathered alliance worth crowing about.

Just don’t expect them to pay rent.

Beat the Heat Summer Coloring Page

Staying cool the flock-approved way—with juicy watermelon and a shady spot! 🐔🍉☀️ Download this summer coloring page and bring the coop to life with color!

What Are the Differences Between a Rooster and a Hen?

If you’re not familiar with backyard chickens, you might not automatically know the difference between a hen and a rooster. It’s something most of us in the Midwest probably take for granted and even wonder how people couldn’t know the difference.
 
hen and rooster

It reminds me of the time growing up when my cousin from the Twin Cities came to visit. She was so excited to see all the “dogs” running through the field. They were sheep. Haha! It was funny at the moment, but I realized then that not everyone gets to grow up around farm animals and learn the simple difference between a rooster and a hen.

 

Let’s break it down in a way that’s easy, practical and (hopefully) a little entertaining.

 

Size, Shape and Fancy Feathers

Roosters (the boys) and hens (the girls) each bring their own look to the flock. Roosters are usually the bigger, flashier ones. They tend to be more robust in size and have more prominent combs and wattles, you know, the red stuff on their head and under their beak. Roosters also have longer, more colorful tail feathers and those slick saddle feathers along their backs.

 

That said, not all hens are plain. I’ve got a few walking around my backyard that could give any rooster a run for his money in the looks department!

 

The Sounds They Make

Roosters are known for their classic crowing, but here’s the truth: it’s not just a morning thing. Any rooster I’ve had has crowed all day long. They crow to stake their claim, protect their hens or just because they feel like it.

 

Hens have their own language, too. They mostly cluck, sometimes to show they’re happy, sometimes when something’s up. Their voices are usually a bit softer (but not always!). I love sitting out in the run just listening to them go back and forth like they’ve got all the gossip.

 

Who’s in Charge?

Roosters tend to take the lead. They’re naturally more assertive and play the role of protector. If there’s a threat nearby, your rooster will let you, and the whole flock, know about it.

 

Within the coop, there’s always a pecking order. If there’s a rooster, he’s usually at the top. Hens will fall in line behind him. If there’s no rooster? The hens will sort it out themselves, and let me tell you, it’s not always pretty. Fights and squabbles will happen until a top hen takes charge. And once that order is set, everyone knows their place. It’s honestly fascinating to watch.

 

The Big Question: Do You Need a Rooster for Eggs?

This is one I get asked a lot, and the answer is no. Hens will lay eggs just fine without a rooster around. The eggs just won’t be fertilized.

 

If you do have a rooster, he’ll mate with your hens and the next eggs laid could hatch into chicks. Roosters don’t exactly believe in monogamy either, one rooster will mate with multiple hens a day. It’s just how they’re wired.

 

Lifespan, Behavior and Backyard Drama

Both roosters and hens can live for several years, depending on the breed and how well they’re cared for. Hens typically lay eggs for a few productive years, while roosters can sometimes get a bit testy, especially if they’re overcrowded or just have a feisty personality.

 

I’ve had to rehome a few roosters (and even a couple hens) over the years for getting too aggressive. I don’t tolerate naughty behavior in the coop. Right now, I’ve got one rooster who’s behaving himself, and I’m loving the peaceful balance. There’s something special about stepping outside and hearing him crow in the morning. It just feels like home.

 

Roosters and hens are definitely different, but they both bring something unique to your flock. I love having a kind rooster around to watch over his ladies, and there’s nothing better than collecting fresh eggs from my hens each day.

 

Raising backyard chickens has been one of my very best yes’s!

 

Until next time,

 

-The Wing Lady

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