Beat the Heat Summer Coloring Page
Staying cool the flock-approved way—with juicy watermelon and a shady spot! 🐔🍉☀️ Download this summer coloring page and bring the coop to life with color!
Staying cool the flock-approved way—with juicy watermelon and a shady spot! 🐔🍉☀️ Download this summer coloring page and bring the coop to life with color!
Chicks grow into chickens really fast! And if you want happy, healthy hens that will lay plenty of eggs, it’s important to understand each stage of their development and provide the right nutrition and care along the way.
Once the chicks hatch, they enter the chick stage. In these early weeks, chicks are highly dependent on their mother (or a brooder) for warmth, food, and water. During this time, proper care and nutrition are vital for healthy growth. Let me break these weeks down for you.
Week 1: Chicks are covered in downy feathers and require a heat source. They begin to walk and peck for food. I always use the Baby Chick Care Kit to make sure all their systems get off to a strong start.
Weeks 2-3: Their feathers start to develop more, and they become more active. They begin socializing and establishing a pecking order. This can go just fine or it can get kind of nasty. It’s important to watch for injuries and treat accordingly as they figure out who will be the top hen.
Weeks 4-6: Chicks shed their down feathers for “teenage” feathers and can regulate their body temperature better. Their diet can be supplemented with grit and more varied foods, but I do this very sparingly. Weeks 1-6, I feed my chicks chick crumble and First Peep.
After the chick stage, the young hens become pullets. This stage is characterized by rapid growth as they begin to mature. It’s an exciting stage because pullets typically start to develop their unique colors and patterns. It’s also during this stage where you would slowly start integrating them into your existing flock if you have one!
This transition takes a lot of patience, but I promise they will eventually all get along. If you want your chickens to be friends with you, it’s important to handle them, give them treats and spend a lot of time with them. There are so many people who don’t understand how my chickens will let me hold them, etc., but it’s because I’ve invested the time into them. And, it’s so worth it for the chicken snuggles!
Weeks 6-12: Learning the Social Rules
Stronger social behaviors emerge as pullets establish their place in the flock. This takes some babysitting to make sure everyone can play nice. I feed them a grower feed, which supports their rapid development. But, I will say, if you integrate them into your existing flock, they end up just eating the others’ layer feed. It’s tough to separate, but don’t worry. I haven’t had any trouble!
Months 4-6: Prepping for Egg Laying
Pullets will begin the transition to layers. Their bodies prepare for egg production, and they may exhibit nesting behaviors. You will notice they start submitting to you by squatting and staying still when they’re getting ready to lay. It’s so exciting!
Once a pullet reaches around 6 months of age, she usually starts laying eggs. This is dependent on their breed and health of course.
I will never forget my first egg! It was one of the most exciting days in our backyard! I’m pretty sure the neighbors heard all about it from my excited shouts! Hahaha!
After reaching 18 months, hens are generally considered mature. They will continue to lay eggs, although production usually starts to slow down as they age. From first lay to around two years is the “prime” laying years for your hens. They will honestly lay pretty solidly through 3-4 years.
Today, I have hens who are almost 7 years old and they have slowed down and almost stopped. But, they will live out their lives in my coop. They have become my pets and I love them dearly!
However, mature hens do require more monitoring for health. Even though they slow down in the laying department, they will remain your flock MVP’s because they keep everyone in line and show the new ones the ropes. I think it’s worth holding onto them if you’re not bound by number restrictions.
Understanding the growth stages of a hen allows poultry keepers to provide the right care and management at each phase. By understanding these developmental milestones, you can ensure your flock remains healthy and productive! Whether for eggs, companionship or both, taking care of your hens through their growth stages is worth it and beneficial for both you and your flock!
It’s spring, and for many backyard chicken keepers, that means one thing: new chicks! I usually order mine from Hoover’s Hatchery, but I’ve also hatched my own a couple of times. It’s exciting, fascinating and honestly, a little nerve-wracking! But if you’re up for the adventure, I’ll walk you through how to candle an egg and spot the signs of chick development along the way.
Candling is a simple method used to check if an egg is fertile and developing properly. It involves shining a bright light through the egg to see what’s going on inside without cracking it open. The term “candling” comes from the old-school practice of using candles, but a strong flashlight works just fine today.
Candling is most helpful for:
Checking if eggs are fertile
Monitoring chick development
Removing eggs that aren’t progressing (so they don’t spoil and affect healthy eggs)
Chick development takes about 21 days from start to hatch. Most people candle twice:
Day 7: Check for early signs of life. A fertile egg will show a small dark spot (the embryo) with red veins branching out and a visible air sac. You might even catch a little movement! If you don’t see veins or an air sac, it’s likely the egg isn’t developing.
Day 14: By now, a healthy chick should take up most of the egg. Look for a darker interior, less light passing through and continued movement. If it still looks clear or hasn’t changed since Day 7, the egg likely isn’t viable and should be removed.
These two candling sessions give you the clearest view of what’s happening inside the shell.
Here’s how I do it at home, and it doesn’t require anything fancy:
Wash your hands before and after handling eggs.
Use a bright light source in a dark room. A strong flashlight works great!
Place the narrow end of the egg gently against the light.
Look for signs of development:
Infertile egg: Clear inside, no veins or dark spots.
Fertile egg: Dark spot (embryo) with visible red veins.
No change by Day 14: Could mean the chick stopped developing.
I like to number each egg and jot down what I see, just like in the photo below. It makes it so much easier to track progress throughout incubation.
Pro Tip: Always return eggs to the same position in the incubator and work quickly to preserve heat and humidity levels.
This is the most common question I get! If the egg is:
Fertile: You’ll see a dark shape and spider-like veins around Day 6-7.
Infertile: The egg will look clear with no dark spot or blood vessels.
By Day 14, fertile eggs will be mostly dark with less visible light passing through. Meaning, your chick is filling up the space!
The first time you candle eggs, it might feel intimidating, but trust me, it gets easier! With practice, you’ll learn to quickly spot which eggs are progressing and which ones aren’t. This not only helps you manage your hatch more confidently, but it can also prevent contamination and heartbreak later on.
If you’re hatching eggs this spring, I’d love to see your fluffy new arrivals! Send pics my way. And don’t forget to grab your Baby Chick Care Kit. It’s packed with everything your chicks need to thrive during their first month!
Until next time,
–The Wing Lady 🐣
Besides the obvious need for procreation, many people ask me what the reason for having a rooster is. If you don’t need a rooster for the hens to lay eggs, then why keep one? A rooster provides protection and stability to his flock. Ever vigilant, he keeps his hens close and always is looking and listening out for danger. Keeping a rooster is more of a personal preference, but there are sure advantages to adding one to your flock.
Cockerels vs Pullets
A cockerel is a young male rooster, while a pullet is a young female chicken.
If you purchase “straight run” chicks, you are gambling on the gender of your chicks. “Straight run” chicks are male and female chicks mixed together. While there are several debated theories on how to tell the difference, the only sure fire way to determine gender is by sexing done by a trained professional. The sexual organs are internal, so unless the chicks are sex-linked. Sex-linked chicks are the male and female chicks of a particular breed look different as chicks, but these chickens will not
Young roosters, called cockerels, do have some features you can look out for. Cockerel chicks will have thicker, bigger feet and legs. They also have what some describe as an “angry eye.” The chick may not actually be feeling any particular way, but it is true that baby roosters have a slant to their eyes, almost giving them an squinty, angry appearance! The only sure fire way to determine whether you have a pullet or a cockerel, will become evident when it starts to crow!
Roosters help feed their hens.
Did you know a good rooster will actually feed his hens before himself? Yes, a gentleman rooster will offer delectable treats to his wives. He will call them over with a rapid, high pitched cluck. He will pick up the morsel and keep dropping it in front of the hen to see.
Young roosters are often less chivalrous, and tend to be greedier than the seasoned roosters. This devotion seems to come with age and maturity. Just like people,all roosters can be different. If you have a good one, keep him around! If you have a bad one,best to remove the problem instead of try to reform them. Aggressive roosters are no joke and can be relentless. Defending yourself just emboldens the rooster, and they really do not seem to learn from reprimands with a broom. The best place for a problem rooster is in the oven!
Crowing
The most iconic trait of the rooster is their crow. Roosters start crowing at around 3 months old, and sometimes this is the first indicator for new chicken owners that they even have a rooster. Roosters crow to stake claim to their territory and warn other roosters to stay away. The frequency and volume depends in the individual. It is true that each rooster has his own unique sounding crow. Roosters don’t just crow in the morning, they will crow all day, and sometimes even in the dead of the night! Its important to consider whether you (and your neighbors) would be okay with tolerating a particular level of noise, that will be happening throughout the entire day.
Roosters provide free flock surveillance.
The main reason to keep a rooster is to help protect your flock. If he is devoted, a rooster will spend all day keeping an eye on his ladies. Always checking the sky and also keeping tabs on the location of all his hens, a good rooster will definitely improve the survivability of the flock. While some roosters will go to battle to defend a hen, their main contribution is as an alarm system. It really is true that a rooster will be hyper vigilant throughout the day, while the hens tend to be a little less observant of their surroundings. His warning call, a quick and high pitched rapid almost shout, alerts the hens to danger. At his call, the hens will always fly for cover.
Roosters provide flock replenishment for free.
The best hen to rooster ratio is 1 rooster per about 10-12 hens. A single rooster is totally fine with more hens, but if you are wanting hatching eggs, its best to stay closer to the ratio to increase your chances of fertile eggs. Mating happens quickly, usually with the rooster first calling the hen, tempting her with a small piece of food. He will then put one wing down, extended to the ground, and do a little dance around her. If the hen accepts him, she will squat on the ground. After mating, the hen can keep sperm within her for several weeks, thus not needing to mate everyday to lay daily fertile eggs.
As far as paternal instincts, roosters don’t have much. They will continue to protect and look over the flock, but it is the mother chickens that do the chick rearing.
Roosters are beautiful, fun characters to have on your farm. Their quintessential crow, and watching them strut proudly around the yard, reminds us of a simpler time and place. If local ordinances allow, try adding a rooster to your flock. Roosters are usually less expensive than hens of the same breed, and you can even sometimes find people giving them away! (just be sure to get a nice one!)
It reminds me of the time growing up when my cousin from the Twin Cities came to visit. She was so excited to see all the “dogs” running through the field. They were sheep. Haha! It was funny at the moment, but I realized then that not everyone gets to grow up around farm animals and learn the simple difference between a rooster and a hen.
Let’s break it down in a way that’s easy, practical and (hopefully) a little entertaining.
Roosters (the boys) and hens (the girls) each bring their own look to the flock. Roosters are usually the bigger, flashier ones. They tend to be more robust in size and have more prominent combs and wattles, you know, the red stuff on their head and under their beak. Roosters also have longer, more colorful tail feathers and those slick saddle feathers along their backs.
That said, not all hens are plain. I’ve got a few walking around my backyard that could give any rooster a run for his money in the looks department!
Roosters are known for their classic crowing, but here’s the truth: it’s not just a morning thing. Any rooster I’ve had has crowed all day long. They crow to stake their claim, protect their hens or just because they feel like it.
Hens have their own language, too. They mostly cluck, sometimes to show they’re happy, sometimes when something’s up. Their voices are usually a bit softer (but not always!). I love sitting out in the run just listening to them go back and forth like they’ve got all the gossip.
Roosters tend to take the lead. They’re naturally more assertive and play the role of protector. If there’s a threat nearby, your rooster will let you, and the whole flock, know about it.
Within the coop, there’s always a pecking order. If there’s a rooster, he’s usually at the top. Hens will fall in line behind him. If there’s no rooster? The hens will sort it out themselves, and let me tell you, it’s not always pretty. Fights and squabbles will happen until a top hen takes charge. And once that order is set, everyone knows their place. It’s honestly fascinating to watch.
This is one I get asked a lot, and the answer is no. Hens will lay eggs just fine without a rooster around. The eggs just won’t be fertilized.
If you do have a rooster, he’ll mate with your hens and the next eggs laid could hatch into chicks. Roosters don’t exactly believe in monogamy either, one rooster will mate with multiple hens a day. It’s just how they’re wired.
Both roosters and hens can live for several years, depending on the breed and how well they’re cared for. Hens typically lay eggs for a few productive years, while roosters can sometimes get a bit testy, especially if they’re overcrowded or just have a feisty personality.
I’ve had to rehome a few roosters (and even a couple hens) over the years for getting too aggressive. I don’t tolerate naughty behavior in the coop. Right now, I’ve got one rooster who’s behaving himself, and I’m loving the peaceful balance. There’s something special about stepping outside and hearing him crow in the morning. It just feels like home.
Roosters and hens are definitely different, but they both bring something unique to your flock. I love having a kind rooster around to watch over his ladies, and there’s nothing better than collecting fresh eggs from my hens each day.
Raising backyard chickens has been one of my very best yes’s!
Until next time,
-The Wing Lady
Chickens have been doing just fine surviving winters with humans for many hundreds of years. Long before the invention of electricity, chickens have lived alongside people in the farmyards. We all love our chickens and want to give them the best care, especially during those bitter, cold winter months.
Here are a few ways to prepare your coop for winter. Whether you just want to make a few improvements to an existing coop, or might be planning a new one, these will definitely help keep your flock warm this winter.
Many people also use the deep litter method in their coops. Instead of removing all the spoiled shavings periodically, you just keep adding more material. (layers of shavings, straw, dried leaves, etc). The litter begins to compost inside the coop and produces warmth! When spring rolls around, you have compost for the garden and can start all over again!
With a few adjustments, your flock will be warm and happy this winter. Enjoy this season of rest and recovery. Give your flock a little extra care this winter and they’ll be paying you back ten fold when spring rolls around!
If you are looking for a FREE way to keep your coop tidy this winter, try using leaves!
Any leaves raked from the yard will do, the only prerequisite is that the leaves be DRY. Rake up your leaves into a pile and let them dry for a few days. After drying, move the leaves into the coop, making the bedding thickness at least about 8” deep. You can use leaves for the deep litter method, or change them out as you clean the coop, either will work with leaves! If you don’t have access to enough leaves, find some friendly neighbors who’d love to get them off their hands. Store extra bags of leaves in a dry location, and add them to the coop as needed throughout the winter.
Over time, the texture of the leaves will change inside the coop. As the chickens kick up and scratch the leaves, they will begin to crumble. This actually makes the perfect texture for coop flooring. Once the dried leaves have been crunched up for a few weeks, they will become similar to confetti paper. The smaller texture is easier for the chickens to move around in, and will be easier to collect when it’s time to clean.
All leaves from your yard should be fine for chickens. They will not eat the leaves, but instead scratch around in them. Leaves raked from the yard hold lots of yummy bugs and treats. Even if you do not use leaves as your bedding, simply giving your cooped hens a bag of leaves will provide enrichment. If they look extra bored, give them a heap of leaves in the run to get them moving. Chickens are very curious and will love hunting for any unlucky bugs in the leaf pile.
Pine needles are also a good option for coop bedding! They will be spiky at first, but just like the leaves, the needles will soon break down and crumble into softer bedding after a week or so. Pine needles also have a wonderful scent that can cover coop odors. We used pine needles in our dog’s bed growing up, and I can still remember the nice smell!
When you are ready to clean the coop, the leaves or pine needles will be mulched down and easy to collect with a manure fork. After being “enriched” by your chickens, the old leaf bedding will be ready for your compost pile! The addition of chicken manure actually aids in a quicker decomposition. Therefore, giving you great composted fertilizer that’ll be ready for next year’s garden! Remember to let any compost “sit” for a few months before putting directly onto your garden.
Personally, this will be my first year using leaves in the coop and I can’t wait! I usually use pine shavings in my coop, but with prices of everything being so high, I am going to give leaves a try! Let me know if you try leaves this fall too!
First, we need to answer what an omnivore is! Omnivore is a fancy word for an organism that eats both plant and animal matter. Omnivores often have flexible diets, allowing them to adapt to various environments and food sources.
If you’ve had chickens for any length of time you will know that they are indeed omnivores. I love to watch my chickens forage for food as they free range in our backyard. They will hunt for insects like beetles, grasshoppers, ants, worms and other creepy crawly things.
In the same spin around the yard, they will munch on grass, dandelions and other plants such as my flowers! That, I don’t love so much. They will also gladly scratch around your garden too if you let them.
Chickens love a variety of “foods” which is funny because they have far less taste buds than us humans. They can tolerate spicy things like red pepper flakes because their taste buds are much less than ours! For little birds that can’t taste very much, they sure like to eat! Haha!
While chickens are omnivores, you might wonder if they can lean more towards being carnivores. Chickens do enjoy hunting for insects, worms and other small creatures like I said above, but their diet is not limited to just meat. In fact, chickens need a balanced diet to stay healthy. Relying solely on a carnivorous diet would leave them deficient in a lot of important nutrients. Chickens need high-quality chicken feed and occasional treats to ensure they get all the vitamins and minerals required for good health. So, while chickens can and do eat meat, they are not strictly carnivores. They thrive on a diverse diet that includes both animal and plant matter.
Chickens are curious creatures with a seemingly insatiable appetite, but can they eat anything? No! While chickens are omnivores, it’s important to know what’s safe and what’s not for your feathered friends.
Safe Treats for Chickens
Chickens can enjoy a wide variety of foods. Fruits like watermelon, berries and apples (without seeds) are healthy and hydrating. Vegetables such as leafy greens, carrots and peas are also great for them. Grains like oats, corn and barley provide essential nutrients and energy. Additionally, insects in your yard like beetles, grasshoppers and worms.
Along with these safe treats, I also like to give my chickens Happy Tract and Golden Graze. These treats are specifically designed to be safe and nutritious, helping to boost their immune systems and improve egg quality. They’re a wonderful supplement to their diet, ensuring my chickens stay healthy and happy, and they can be given daily!
Foods to Avoid
However, not all foods are safe for chickens. Avoid feeding them raw potatoes, avocado pits and skins, chocolate and anything moldy or spoiled. These can be toxic and cause serious health issues! Also, steer clear of salty or sugary foods, as these can lead to obesity and other health problems.
Moderation is Key
While chickens can eat a variety of foods, moderation is essential. Too many treats can unbalance their diet. A high-quality chicken feed should be their main source of nutrition, supplemented with safe treats to keep them happy and healthy.
Chickens have a varied diet that can include:
Grains: This is a staple in their diet. Chicken feed often contains a mix of corn, wheat, barley and oats.
Vegetables and Fruits: Chickens enjoy leafy greens, carrots, apples (without seeds), berries and melons. These foods provide essential vitamins and minerals.
Insects and Small Creatures: Chickens naturally forage for bugs, worms and small insects. These provide protein and are a natural part of their diet.
Kitchen Scraps: Leftover vegetables, rice, pasta (not coated in sauce or cheese) and bread can be given to chickens, but again, avoid salty, sugary or fatty foods.
Specialty Feeds: High-quality commercial feeds are designed to ensure chickens get a balanced diet. These feeds often include essential nutrients like calcium and proteins to support egg production.
A balanced diet is crucial for chickens to maintain their health, produce quality eggs and lead a happy life. And I can’t stress this enough, always ensure they have access to fresh water and avoid feeding them harmful foods.
Free-ranging chickens tend to have a more balanced diet made up of what they find naturally free ranging, while chickens kept “cooped up” or caged may require a more carefully planned diet.
I always provide my flock with a good high quality feed along with their free range time. My chickens don’t always get to free range either because of predators which is another important reason to have a high quality food. I spotted a coyote mid day last week running through the alfalfa field right behind our house. Yikes!
The girls are throwing a fit every time I keep them inside their run, but it’s for their own good right now. In cases like this, keeping high quality chicken food for them is to make sure their cute little bodies are getting all they need to stay healthy. I also always provide access to clean water, as hydration is a vital part of their diet. I always include Chicken E-lixir in my chicken’s water. It’s a daily vitamin for your flock that includes organic oregano oil, prebiotics, vitamins, minerals, calcium and electrolytes to keep your chickens at their best!
I love giving my chickens daily treats. Our go-tos are Happy Tract and Golden Graze. While I occasionally share their favorite fruits and veggies like watermelon and zucchini, I have peace of mind knowing that Happy Tract and Golden Graze are safe, nutritious treats that boost their immune systems and improve egg quality!
Ultimately, chickens are smart and usually know what they can and cannot eat. They also have their favorites which include both meat and plants! So, the next time you’re chatting with someone and the topic of chicken diets comes up, you’ll be all set to explain that chickens are indeed omnivores. They love variety and are quite the foodies in their own right!
Until next time,
-The Wing Lady
Chicken lice may not be the most glamorous topic, but they’re a critical concern for chicken owners everywhere. These pesky pests are becoming more prevalent, especially among free-range flocks and backyard flocks.
Let’s take a closer look at chicken lice, understand why they’re becoming more problematic and uncover effective treatment and prevention strategies, including the role of diatomaceous earth.
Lice aren’t exactly new to the poultry scene, but recent research has highlighted their increasing significance. Historically, lice were not considered major pests for chickens. However, a groundbreaking study by UC Riverside, published in Parasites & Vectors, has changed that perspective.
The study revealed that lice are feeding on the skin and blood of free-range chickens, infecting them at much higher rates than caged flocks. This is particularly relevant in states like California where cage-free egg production is the norm.
The research uncovered unexpected findings, including skin lesions associated with chicken body lice, which had not been documented before.
Recognizing chicken lice early can save you a lot of trouble. Here’s what to watch for:
Bald Spots and Feather Loss: One of the most noticeable signs of lice infestation is bald patches or a significant loss of feathers. Lice feed on the skin, which can lead to irritation and feather loss.
Excessive Pecking and Itching: Chickens with lice often peck at themselves more than usual and preen excessively as well as exhibit signs of itching or discomfort. This behavior can lead to more feather loss and skin damage.
Reduced Egg Production: Lice infestations can stress your chickens, leading to decreased egg production. If you notice a drop in eggs, it might be worth checking for lice.
Visible Lice: Sometimes, you may see the lice themselves. They’re small, wingless insects that can be hard to spot without close inspection. They typically live close to the skin and feathers and look similar to sesame seeds.
Picture source: Life and leisure blog – Lice on a chicken
Picture source: Infovet – Chicken lice under a microscope
Prevention is always better than a cure, and with chicken lice, there are several proactive steps you can take:
Maintain Clean Housing: Regularly clean and disinfect your chickens’ coop and nesting areas. Lice thrive in dirty environments, so keeping things clean can help deter them.
Monitor and Isolate New Birds: If you’re introducing new chickens to your flock, keep them isolated until you’re sure they’re lice-free. This will prevent any potential spread of pests to your existing flock.
Regular Inspections: Frequently check your chickens for signs of lice. Early detection can prevent a small problem from becoming a big issue. Make sure to quarantine birds with lice until they’re gone.
Proper Nutrition: Healthy chickens are better equipped to fend off pests. Ensure your flock is getting a balanced diet to maintain their overall health.
Pest Control: While it’s difficult to completely prevent wild birds, you can reduce rodent presence by sealing gaps, storing food off the ground or in secure containers and keeping the coop area clean. Additionally, remove eggs daily to avoid attracting rodents.
Don’t panic if you find lice on your chickens. Chicken lice are host-specific and can’t survive on humans or non-bird domestic pets. They can only feed on one or a few closely related animal species. And luckily, there are several effective treatment options available to help manage the situation and keep your flock healthy.
One of the most common treatments is using permethrin sprays. Permethrin is a widely used insecticide that effectively kills lice on contact. When using permethrin, it’s essential to carefully follow the instructions provided on the product. This ensures that the treatment is applied safely and effectively without causing harm to your chickens. It’s important to cover the entire body of the chicken, paying particular attention to areas where lice and nits (lice eggs) may hide, such as under the wings and around the vent.
For those who prefer a more natural approach, there are alternative remedies like natural dust baths. One popular choice among chicken owners is diatomaceous earth, a fine powder made from the fossilized remains of tiny aquatic organisms.
Diatomaceous earth can be sprinkled in the areas where chickens typically dust bathe like Preen Queen dust bath additive. When chickens roll in the dust, the diatomaceous earth gets into their feathers and onto their skin, helping to remove moisture and kill lice. It’s important to use food-grade diatomaceous earth and to apply it in well-ventilated areas to avoid respiratory issues for both you and your chickens.
Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a popular natural remedy among poultry keepers, but there are a few myths surrounding its use:
It’s Not a Pesticide: DE works by physically damaging the exoskeletons of insects, not through chemical action. It’s not a traditional pesticide, but it can still be effective in controlling lice and mites.
It’s Safe in Moderation: When used correctly, DE is safe for chickens. However, excessive use or inhalation of dust can be harmful. Always use it in well-ventilated areas and in moderation. Read the directions carefully on the packaging before using.
It’s Not a Cure-All: DE can help control lice, but it’s not a guaranteed solution for severe infestations. It’s best used as part of an integrated pest management strategy. Always consult your veterinarian for serious infestations.
As stated above, diatomaceous earth can be a valuable tool in managing chicken lice and mites. Here’s how to use it effectively:
Application Methods
1. Dust Bath Additive:
Usage: Mix food-grade diatomaceous earth, such as Preen Queen, into your chickens’ dust bath areas. This allows chickens to coat themselves with the powder, helping eliminate lice and mites on their bodies.
Application: Sprinkle a generous amount of Preen Queen containing DE into the dust bath and mix it thoroughly with the soil or sand. This helps the DE reach the chickens’ skin as they bathe, providing a natural way to control parasites.
2. Litter Treatment:
Usage: Apply DE directly to the bedding and the coop floor to target lice and mites in the chickens’ environment. We recommend using Coop Recuperate. This method helps reduce the risk of re-infestation by addressing the habitat where parasites may live and breed.
Application: After cleaning the coop, sprinkle a thin layer of food-grade DE, like Coop Recuperate, across the entire floor and mix it into the bedding material. This will help keep the environment inhospitable for parasites.
Frequency of DE
Regular Reapplication: Consistently apply DE, especially after cleaning the coop or refreshing the bedding. We recommend applying Coop Recuperate at least two times per week for prevention. Regular use helps maintain control over lice and mite populations, ensuring a healthier environment for your chickens.
Bottom line, while chicken lice might seem like a small issue, they can have a significant impact on your flock’s health and productivity! Remember, a clean environment, using DE and regular checks are your best defense against these unwelcome pests!
Best,
-Strong Animals Team
Tending backyard chickens is both a delight and bargain. Relative to the cost of buying and keeping a purebred dog or cat, chickens are equally fascinating animals that are relatively inexpensive to keep and come with a bonus. Fresh eggs!
Just what does it cost to raise a clutch of chicks to the laying stage? How can that cost be reduced?
Marion and Rich Patterson decided to keep track of costs. They already had feeders, waterers, brooders, and a coop, so the costs listed below are the consumable ones for raising chicks to 20 weeks. That’s about when they start laying.
The Pattersons received 12 baby chicks of various breeds from Hoover’s Hatchery in April 2024. Since many families buy just six chicks their food costs will be about half of what’s listed below. Costs vary by location. These are based on buying from an Iowa farm store.
Cost to Raise 12 chicks to 20 weeks
Purchase chicks. 12 @ $5/chick average $ 60
Brooder electricity estimate $ 6
Starter/grower feed. Five 50-pound bags @ $20 $100
Bedding/litter. Four bales of wood shavings @ $7 $ 28
Total $194
It comes to $16 a chick. That’s a bargain, but there are ways to reduce the expense. Since the cost of the chicks, bedding, and electricity are fixed, a frugal family can manage the flock in a way that reduces feed expenses.
Reducing Feed Costs
It’s never a good plan to scrimp on feed. Quality commercial food helps chicks grow into healthy hens that lay plenty of eggs. Chickens should always have access to top notch feed, but here are ways to lower the cost. Here are a few.
Buy feed in a Big Bag.
When bought in a 50-pound bag the per pound cost is about 40 cents.
The same feed in a 10-pound bag is about $1 a pound! Most farm stores
are happy to help anyone unable to heft a 50-pound bag. Ask at
the checkout counter and they’ll have a salesperson load the bag into a
customer’s trunk at no extra cost. Once home, open the bag while it’s still in the
trunk and scoop five to ten pounds of feed into buckets that can be easily lifted
without back strain. It may take a few trips from the car to the storage container but it eliminates the need to lift heavy feed.
Organic vs. Conventional feed: A 40-pound bag of organic feed costs about $40 or
$1 a pound. It’s about double the cost of standard feed. Whether to buy
organic is a personal choice. It’s high quality, just expensive. Shifting to
conventional quality feed saves money.
Store Brand. Store brand feed is less expensive than quality name brand feed
and meets a chick’s basic nutritional needs. Often it lacks probiotics and
essential oils commonly found in premium breeds. Store brand feeds can
knock a few dollars off a bag’s cost.
Kitchen snacks and neighbors. Kitchen scraps are chicken treats slightly lowering
consumption of store-bought feed. Leftover rice, pizza crusts, melon seeds
and a host of other of other leftover nutritious human foods will be devoured
with enthusiasm. Scraps are best fed in moderation as a treat rather than
a steady diet. Compost potato peels, meat, and house plant trimmings instead of putting them into the coop. Neighbors may also bring over their food
scraps. Advise them on what is best to share with the hens.
Situating a compost bin near the chicken run makes for easy sorting. Toss
scraps that chicken can eat into the run and the rest into the composter.
Maximizing Run Size to Grow Delicious Food for Foraging Chickens.
Homegrown Feed. Most families can’t grow most of the ingredients usually blended into commercial feed, but it’s easy to manage a run or yard so it produces natural feed as a supplement. Chickens are hungry omnivores. They love seeds, grass, worms, grubs, bugs, and just about any other small animal they can catch. Managing a chicken run is an easy way to reduce feed costs.
Chickens soon turn a tiny vegetated run into a barren swath of dirt. A run devoid of plants produces little food, so the bigger the run the freer food it can produce. The huge fenced run at Winding Pathways provides about 200 square feet for every chicken. It is so big relative to the number of hens foraging in it that they can’t possibly eat everything there. During warm months it’s a constant source of free food. Chickens eat some of the plants directly while others attract high protein insects that hens snap up. Increasing a run’s size helps it sustain plants.
Families with small runs can do a few things to temporarily expand it to give the chickens more foraging space.
The off-season garden: Many vegetable gardens are located adjacent to, or near, a chicken run. Often gardens are fenced to keep rabbits and deer away from tasty vegetables. The same fence will keep chickens in.
Chickens love many vegetables. If they can get into a garden during the growing season, they’ll quickly devour lettuce, chard, sprouting beans and ripening tomatoes. They must be excluded during the growing season, but after the last tomatoes and beans are picked and fall’s nights are frosty, chickens can be outstanding garden helpers. By rigging a portable passageway from the chicken run to the garden hens will gleefully scratch amid vegetable debris as they snack on weed seeds, insects, and bits of leftover vegetables. They can forage there all winter and be excluded just before next spring’s planting season. Chickens foraging in a winter garden do more than find free food. They deposit droppings, loosen the soil, and eat weed seeds and insects that would otherwise cause problems during the next growing season.
From the Kitchen- Even the neighbors kitchen. When fed leftover bits of rice, pizza crusts, chunks of tomatoes, melon seeds, and a host of other kitchen wastes, chickens enjoy interesting treats and put otherwise wasted food to use. Human food scraps can stretch feed dollars. Make scraps an occasional treat, rather than a main course. Some human foods may be toxic or unpalatable to chickens. It’s wise to avoid giving chickens Potato peels, tomato plants, many herbs, and house plant trimmings. These belong in the compost bin.
Neighbors can help! Many will save their kitchen scraps and enjoy the flock snacking on them.
Seeding the Run. Seeding tasty plants in a chicken run helps it produce more food.
Sprinkling inexpensive annual rye seed in the run every spring, and excluding the chickens until it’s a few inches high, will produce a green vegetation carpet. Adding clover, turnip, radish, alfalfa, and buckwheat seeds adds diversity. Blends of seeds ideal for planting in chicken runs can often be found in stores that sell hunting equipment. Hunters often scatter these to increase deer forage.
Chicken owners have many ways to save costs while enjoying the hens and relishing the jewels they lay each day.